Crossing into Manitoba on a smaller highway meant that we didn’t get a big welcome sign. We stopped at what seems like the border from gps. You will just have to imagine the accomplishment with us.
If Saskatchewan was at least indifferent to our presence, then Manitoba was downright friendly. Just like it says on their licence plates. Drivers beside us would pass very slowly, leaving plenty of space, and offer a warm wave and smile as they went by.
The rural highways are not paved on the shoulders which under normal circumstances would make for a harrowing ride, but the respect in space from the local drivers made us feel very comfortable and welcome on these roads between farms.
We explored our way South, and East, and South, and East, zig-zagging our way towards the town of Killarney where dear family await to host us on their ranch
Another riding day with favourable conditions left lots of time for hanging out with more new bovine friends.
Imagine going to school in this shed. In a Manitoba winter. There is no doubt that it was uphill both ways to and from.
We got in another big day at 150+ kms and set up in the lovely town campground at Melita. Showers, warm washrooms and electricity. We’re feeling pretty good.
Next morning, en route to Deloraine, not so much. Our introduction to real head wind comes with the same crushing self doubt as our first experiences with mountain climbs. A wind holding steady at 35kph, directly in your path, with gusts at 50kph adds a hopelessness that will not be remedied with a speedy and effortless descent. No. There will come no relief. You will battle at 7-8kph, achieving nearly nothing for an entire useless hopeless day of despair.
When the road turned South and the wind came across us, the force was strong enough to push the fenders against the tires and add to the frustrations as we prodded along in our lowest gears as though climbing an 8% grade.
We hid behind buildings to keep our lunch from blowing off down the road.
This building marked the level achieved.
Slower kms and a crash back to reality was remedied easily by a fantastic full day visit with cousins in Killarney.
We hung out with the horses, dogs and cats, played some disc golf,
picked fresh garden veggies, hot-tubbed,
and let Nelson out of the bag for some musical fun.
On the road again, and we’re really enjoying the trip through rural Manitoba.
There is a comfortable pace of life on display here that matches the gentle rolling hills. Like Saskatchewan, it’s absolutely worth doing this segment of a cross Canada trip, despite not being perhaps as “glamorous” as the Rockies or lakes region to come.
The images of healthy farms and smiling friendly faces leave an indelible print in our minds that we will cherish along side the rest of our experiences.
More cows watching us go by. We’re still not over it.
We arrive at a view point over the Agassiz Lake basin. It’s fascinating to envision this full of water (or ice!!), much much larger than any of the Great Lakes.
From the view point you can almost make out the CN Tower…. no just kidding, but we’re lucky to be there without any forest fire smoke and I’m sure this is the furthest I’ve ever seen.
More shoulderless highway, and as we’re getting closer to Winnipeg the increase in truck traffic makes constant watching the rear view and bailing into the gravel get frustrating.
We opted for a pleasant detour across the ‘grid’…
….which of course gave us the opportunity to go down to the crossroads to try and trade our souls for better guitar playing skills.
The devil informed us that Robert Johnson had already claimed the goods and we would have to make do with….practising.
Red River leads us up towards the city of Winnipeg, which will present the largest community of humans living in close proximity since we left home.
Any fears of riding in a congested city were assuaged shortly as we easily navigated wide paved roads on our way in to a beautiful historic neighbourhood for a nice overnight visit with family. (This time on Sherrie’s side).
We’ve really been very lucky so far to have family stops spaced evenly across this massive country.
Spaghetti is a perfect cyclists meal!
Out of Winnipeg and into another blunt force headwind. We were slow going and frustrated, inching our way towards the geographical centre of Canada.
We stopped for quite some time at the monument. Maybe the wind will just quit.
This feels like a huge accomplishment, and we finally starting to feel like, for sure, maybe , we’re actually going to be able to complete this epic. Possibly.
The wind is not letting up as planned. We’ll either have to pedal through it, or spend some more time congratulating ourselves.
Yeah, let’s sit here a bit longer.
There has been no change in currency, language, and customs (for the most part). No one has stopped us to ask for “papers”. We have had no interactions with law enforcement other than a friendly wave and smile, and we have freely navigated the road ways, towns and cities, and crossed provincial borders with completely unfettered privilege. Wish it was like this for everyone.
We ponder this from a Terriill-sized chair in the middle of the country.
A late start and a slow-mo day meant we couldn’t get ahead of the brewing storm. Thunder shower warnings pressed us to get a hot meal at the restaurant near Hadashville and contemplate where we’d try and set up the tent.
We started with pierogis and sausage. Excellent choice.
Some hours passed as we sat in the gazebo with a glass of wine. There is no “shelter” in site. When this storm hits, we and our gear will likely be floating.
Next we tried the butter chicken. Even better choice.
The proprietors, two young pahalwan (strong men) took interest in our plight. They immediately offered us as place to sleep, inside if we liked, in a semi truck if we liked, or right here in the gazebo if we liked.
“If you are happy, I am happy.”
We set up our tent right inside the screened in gazebo as the rain started. It poured dramatically all night long and we slept comfortably and dry with all our gear in the shelter. What a nice night after all!
The rain was still trailing us as we got on the road early. We had time to make up so no choice but to get a little damp.
We made it to beautiful Falcon Lake in a provincial park nearing the Ontario border and stopped for lunch and tire repair.
The extended days of wind and wet and gray adds a significant degree of difficulty to a long distance bike trip. Tough to dry cloths and tenting gear, tough to solar charge phones and lights. The pedaling in this weather is nice, but frequent extended stops are required, slowing our progress.
After lunch we had..,, second lunch, when a Colombian family from Winnipeg invited us to share burgers at their campsite.
The conversation was lovely, and as the afternoon dwindled away we decided to just get a campsite for ourselves in this beautiful place rather than press out onto the wet highway. $14.75 for a provincial campsite. Nice job Manitoba!
Sherrie trying to skate out of the photo….
Not quite.
The extra half day-off separated us from the wet weather system (at least temporarily) and we had a really pretty trail to ride along some beautiful lakes as we left the province.
Thanks Manitoba!! The province gets a “must do” from us. We have scenery and faces to remember forever!
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